Dec. 1st, 2013

muckefuck: (zhongkui)
As late as Wednesday morning, I was still trying to get Nuphy to find someone to give away my ticket to Traviata to. It's my third or fourth since I began subscribing to Lyric, and I simply couldn't work up any enthusiasm. On top of that, I'd been through three days of inflamed haemorrhoids followed by two days of the flu (or rather, one day of flu and one day of recovering from not having any anything in over a day). The thought of having to endure an opera I was indifferent to unwell was too odious to contemplate. Or so I told him. But he's nothing if not tenacious when it comes to getting his way. In the end, he convinced me. Am I glad I went? Yes--but with reservations.

Violetta is a demanding role. Each act calls for a different sort of soprano, so finding someone who can do equal justice to them all is a nearly impossible order. Marina Rebeka comes very close to fulfilling it. Our seat companion for the night (a music student from Italy) was disappointed she didn't interpolate the E♭ over high C at the end of Act I. I'm just amazed she made it that far without tripping over any of the coloratura passages. There's nothing I hate more than a screechy soprano, so the first couple of times she had to reach for the upper end of her range, I tensed up. But once I realised she was never going to cross over the line into shrillness, I could relax and enjoy.

If only the tenor had been a match for her, it would've been quite a memorable performance. But sadly, Joseph Calleja (a Maltese, in accordance with the EU's new operatic work quota for islanders) didn't live up to his hype. I was satisfied with him in Act I, where he plays a modest role, because I figured he was saving up for the opening of Act 2. But when his passionate resolve to leave for Paris at once barely registered over the sound of the orchestra, I knew we were in trouble. Worse, the Italian criticised his "goaty" vibrato during the first intermission and so whenever he opened his mouth for the rest of the evening that was all I could hear.

And then there's Quinn Kelsey as the elder Germont. He was a Ryan Centre member for several years so we've heard him in a number of smaller roles and always appreciated his booming baritone. But he's just not up to the demands of this one. Some reviewers criticised his harsh demeanour, but I think that's perfectly in keeping with the character. For me the issue was that he just sounded dull (and--according to Nuphy--at times even flat). As is usual these days, the rest of the cast was filled out with current Ryan Centre performers. They all sounded equally adequate to me, though Nuphs singled out Richard Ollarsaba (as Grenvil) for particular praise.

By some reckonings, then, that's only one bad principle out of five, right? But even with the full cooperation of my body, it was still an evening to be endured. When the drinking song started up in Act I, I found myself engulfed in a warm glow of nostalgia, like you might get from being served something familiar your grandma used to make. But soon I found myself impatient for the duet with the elder Germont. And as that limped by disappointingly, I began fighting sleep and longing for the death scene.

So besides Rebeka, what was good about it? Nuphy thought the conducting was good; the Italian called it "impersonal". I was just happy it moved along at a sprightly pace. The production was a new one at last, and Nuphy got my hopes up a bit by describing it as "minimal". It wasn't. Maybe he said that because the set is fairly constant (a wide circular room, screened off in Act II Scene 1 by a backdrop of trees) but the furnishings and costumes are lush and period, particularly in the party scenes. For the first, the attendants are wearing 18th-century dress with the addition of realistic oversized hares' ears. It took me a while to notice that under the wigs they were all female. Cute, very cute. For the second, the space above is stuffed with a splendid array of richly-coloured lighted balloons and the bulls are represented by enormous and fantastical puppets, which get reused in Act III to great effect. (As the sounds of carnival erupt, coloured silhouettes are projected onto the curved back wall. Unexpected and effective.)

As far as the staging, the missteps were few and mostly involved that clunker Calleja. For starters, can someone explain to me why he, out of the whole cast, could not be fitted with shoes that didn't squeak on the parquet? When he began to sing, I thought he had a whistle in his voice. It took a bit of observation to deduce that the sounds only appeared when he spun on his heel (which unfortunately the staging had him do often). He was also strangely aloof in scenes he shouldn't've been. At Flora's party, he strides downstage right past Violetta not as if he's snubbing her but as if he genuinely isn't aware she's right where he fixed his eyes on her a moment ago. And in the death scene, he waits a full half a minute after being told "Come closer" before he even reacts, much less rushes to Violetta's side.

Our seatmate says he keeps coming back to Traviata because it's so laden with potential. He's never been to a performance that lived up to it on all measures, but he lives in hope. Maybe if I see enough, they'll merge in my mind so that I retain the best from each and construct a Platonic memory that supersedes any of the actual performances I've attended. Last night brings me a couple steps closer to that.
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muckefuck: (zhongkui)
Our last dinner at La Scarola was something of a bust as far as I was concerned. While Nuphy feasted, I sipped chicken broth out of deference to my troublesome tummy. When that stayed down okay, I followed it with some grilled octopus and a few bites of his risotto. No drinks, no dessert. So it's not like a revisit would've been too soon. But catching sight of Piccolo Sogno across the street aroused my curiosity, and I talked the old bugger into giving it a try.

I'm glad I did, since it means I never have to go back. And I'll appreciate our meals at its rival all the more. The food isn't bad, it just isn't good value for money. The octopus in my grilled seafood appetiser was tough, and everything tasted of little more than char. When I actually was able to make out the infused oil, I thought it lovely (despite the former presence of capers), but that really only happened on one bite. At least it had more character than the autumn gnocchi, which read well but were doughy and bland. The spinach in them lent nothing but colour. When you read "mushrooms" on a menu that offers slices of shaved truffle, you expect, I dunno, porcini? But mostly what I saw were flabby slices of baby portobello. Thanks, but we do have a neighbourhood grocery nearby. Nuphy was more successful. He praised his ravioli and enjoyed his salmon with fingerling potatoes so much he gave me a sample of each. The potato was lovely and crisp on the cut side, and the salmon, although perfectly seared, was mushy.

Service was excellent for the first hour and then abruptly dropped off. Suddenly servers, who had never been more than a nod away, became difficult to catch. Even after becoming impatient for his fish, Nuphy went ahead and ordered dessert, grappa, and a coffee with only fifteen minutes before we need to push on. As I anticipated, the chocolate cake arrived at the last possible moment, giving us hardly a chance to stuff down a few molten mouthfuls before dashing and no time to dispute the brand of grappa. (Nuphy, a partisan of Banfi, swore he'd been given the wrong stuff.) Flustered, the poor man attempted to put away his fountain pen incorrectly an suffered an explosion. They went out of their way to be accommodating--even comping a couple of items--but I wanted to tell them it was a waste of effort.

It's really a lovely space, sectioned off in such a way that doesn't impede circulation but does block sound. Despite being two deaf old men, we didn't need to raise our voices (though we did occasionally have to lean in). For some reason, the lighting was dim in the seating areas but harshly bright in the restroom and the art was uninspired but not especially cheesy. It was a healthy crowd, well dressed and well heeled, but I'll be damned what they see in the dishes to pack them in like that.
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