Riques revisited

donia's recent comments on Rique's encouraged me to give the new owners a try, so I stopped by for a very late lunch--so late I was the only customer. I think the host was taken aback when I ordered huevos motuleños without even looking at a menu. They've monkeyed with it a bit, most notably by divorcing the beans from the fried tortilla (they now come on the side studded with nachos), but the only thing really broken about it was the hard-cooked yolks, which could be easily fixed by requesting them runny upon ordering. Sure, if you want to find fault, this is something you shouldn't have to do--like medium-rare beef, that should be the default and your server should prompt you for your preference in any case--but the presentation was so thoughtful otherwise I can't ascribe it to indifference. Also, the sauce wasn't to my liking at first, but it grew on me and they've upped the ham considerably--which is just as well since I think I paid a dollar or two more for it.

As for the service, it was solicitous bordering on desperate. It's hard to strike a balance when the customer-server ratio is one-to-one, but I think "Irma" was attentive without being too hovery. No, it was only when she asked me how long since I'd been in and we started chatting that I was struck by her striving to please. Any unusual love of mine that I mentioned--champurrado, huitlacoche, etc.--she responded to with "Oh, we can make that for you if you call ahead." Not only that, she would go on to suggest other specialties in the same family. Oh, you like atole, what about leche con arroz (sic; it's a beverage, not a dessert!) or bebida de avena (oatmeal drink)? So it looks like I'll be going back--next time I get a craving that announces itself a day in advance.