Oct. 2nd, 2002 08:29 am
The good, the bad, and the ugly: pt. 1
The Good: Another charming food experience.
I hurried home last night in order to tackle my laundry. I was furiously hungry, but all I really had time to do was fry up the leftover vermicelli from the previous night's visit to the best Thai place in E-town and wolf it down between loads. After getting my most important calls out of the way, I set off for the sushi place down the street from me. (Don't get excited: I had no intention of taking the sushi home and frying it--as delectable as that would be. Nowadays, more and more sushi places are willing to fry it for you anyway.)
There used to be a wonderful, reasonably-priced place just down the block, but it changed ownership over a year ago. We tried out its replacement and weren't impressed. Months later, however, I returned on another laundry night and had a very yummy fish salad, which made me think either we hadn't ordered the right things before or it took them a while to hit their stride. It was very busy and crowded that second visit--the entire dining area is no bigger than a studio apartment--which wasn't what I was in the mood for that night.
Fortunately, the sputtering near-rain had kept most people away. The take-out business is lively, so three chefs behind the counter were beavering away despite having only two customers at the bar. I took a seat in front of one of them and leafed through the menu. "Ginger Saba"--chopped gari and mackerel maki--was the special that caught my eye, so I ordered it. The chef eyed me.
"Saba has a very strong taste."
"That's okay," I replied.
Still, before he began preparing the roll, he cut off a sliver and asked me:
"Do you want to try a bit first?"
Amused, I ate it and gave him the green light.
Usually, I bring something to read when I go to a restaurant alone. This time, I deliberately didn't so I'd be forced to talk to people and it paid off, big time. The chefs were chattering animatedly in an Asian language with the two young women at the counter with me. I foolishly assumed it was Japanese when I came in and upbraided myself for not being able to make out a single word. It took surprisingly long for it to dawn on me that the language sounded nothing like Japanese at all.
"You're Thai, aren't you?" I said to the chef.
He looked startled. "How did you know?"
I thought about explaining the process of deduction that led me to that conclusion, but in the end, I just shrugged and said, "It sounded like Thai."
I turned to the rest of the group and said, somewhat stupidly:
"You're all Thai."
"One big happy family," replied the woman nearest me.
At first, I thought she was being metaphorical. Eventually, though, I realised that she and her companion were getting free food from the chef, particularly the older one nearest them. Before then, however, she offered me samples of their spider maki and whitefish. Thus, far from being put off by everyone's chumminess with one another, I felt included. "It is" and "it isn't" were about the only words I could understand, but everyone spoke and joked so expressively it gave me the sensation of following along.
At one point, the chef in front of me showed off his new knife to the women. It had been made in Japan and then sent by ship rather than by plane, forcing him to wait three months for it. There were characters inscribed on the tang.
"What's it say?" I asked.
"It's my name."
He held it up for me and I read out the characters. Another astonished response. Jeez, they must thing us whey-faces don't know anything!
I ended up hanging out for over an hour. In between bursts of chat, there was plenty to observe from the bustle and teasing of the chefs to their interaction with the regulars who filtered in. At one point, I tried to draw the waitress into conversation. She had just served a dragon roll, which they made by covering a reverse-maki with avocado slices and inserting kaiware-daikon antennae and carrot eyes. It looked like a slug, and I said so.
She didn't know "slug".
"Like a snail without a shell."
She didn't know "snail".
"Hoy thaak," I said. (My favourite Thai restaurant for years was named "The Snail".)
She turned to my chef and asked him, in Thai, what you call a snail with no shell. He smiled and said:
"Naked snail."
I left shortly after the young women. The master chef pretended to wipe away tears at their parting and everyone bowed with their hands folded in front of their noses.
"See," I told my chef, "if I hadn't guessed it before, that would've given it away. Only Thais bow like that!"
I bowed myself, first to the master and then to his apprentices, and headed home in a buoyant mood.
I hurried home last night in order to tackle my laundry. I was furiously hungry, but all I really had time to do was fry up the leftover vermicelli from the previous night's visit to the best Thai place in E-town and wolf it down between loads. After getting my most important calls out of the way, I set off for the sushi place down the street from me. (Don't get excited: I had no intention of taking the sushi home and frying it--as delectable as that would be. Nowadays, more and more sushi places are willing to fry it for you anyway.)
There used to be a wonderful, reasonably-priced place just down the block, but it changed ownership over a year ago. We tried out its replacement and weren't impressed. Months later, however, I returned on another laundry night and had a very yummy fish salad, which made me think either we hadn't ordered the right things before or it took them a while to hit their stride. It was very busy and crowded that second visit--the entire dining area is no bigger than a studio apartment--which wasn't what I was in the mood for that night.
Fortunately, the sputtering near-rain had kept most people away. The take-out business is lively, so three chefs behind the counter were beavering away despite having only two customers at the bar. I took a seat in front of one of them and leafed through the menu. "Ginger Saba"--chopped gari and mackerel maki--was the special that caught my eye, so I ordered it. The chef eyed me.
"Saba has a very strong taste."
"That's okay," I replied.
Still, before he began preparing the roll, he cut off a sliver and asked me:
"Do you want to try a bit first?"
Amused, I ate it and gave him the green light.
Usually, I bring something to read when I go to a restaurant alone. This time, I deliberately didn't so I'd be forced to talk to people and it paid off, big time. The chefs were chattering animatedly in an Asian language with the two young women at the counter with me. I foolishly assumed it was Japanese when I came in and upbraided myself for not being able to make out a single word. It took surprisingly long for it to dawn on me that the language sounded nothing like Japanese at all.
"You're Thai, aren't you?" I said to the chef.
He looked startled. "How did you know?"
I thought about explaining the process of deduction that led me to that conclusion, but in the end, I just shrugged and said, "It sounded like Thai."
I turned to the rest of the group and said, somewhat stupidly:
"You're all Thai."
"One big happy family," replied the woman nearest me.
At first, I thought she was being metaphorical. Eventually, though, I realised that she and her companion were getting free food from the chef, particularly the older one nearest them. Before then, however, she offered me samples of their spider maki and whitefish. Thus, far from being put off by everyone's chumminess with one another, I felt included. "It is" and "it isn't" were about the only words I could understand, but everyone spoke and joked so expressively it gave me the sensation of following along.
At one point, the chef in front of me showed off his new knife to the women. It had been made in Japan and then sent by ship rather than by plane, forcing him to wait three months for it. There were characters inscribed on the tang.
"What's it say?" I asked.
"It's my name."
He held it up for me and I read out the characters. Another astonished response. Jeez, they must thing us whey-faces don't know anything!
I ended up hanging out for over an hour. In between bursts of chat, there was plenty to observe from the bustle and teasing of the chefs to their interaction with the regulars who filtered in. At one point, I tried to draw the waitress into conversation. She had just served a dragon roll, which they made by covering a reverse-maki with avocado slices and inserting kaiware-daikon antennae and carrot eyes. It looked like a slug, and I said so.
She didn't know "slug".
"Like a snail without a shell."
She didn't know "snail".
"Hoy thaak," I said. (My favourite Thai restaurant for years was named "The Snail".)
She turned to my chef and asked him, in Thai, what you call a snail with no shell. He smiled and said:
"Naked snail."
I left shortly after the young women. The master chef pretended to wipe away tears at their parting and everyone bowed with their hands folded in front of their noses.
"See," I told my chef, "if I hadn't guessed it before, that would've given it away. Only Thais bow like that!"
I bowed myself, first to the master and then to his apprentices, and headed home in a buoyant mood.